New Zealand was never meant to be the destination. Sure, it was on my list – one of those “one day” places – but flights from Europe aren’t cheap. If I were to make the trip, it would have to be a big one, maybe tagging on Australia or a Pacific island while I was in the neighbourhood.
But life is funny like that and always have other plans.
For a long time, I had been planning my escape without taking action – quitting my job at the airport and leaving France behind. Canada was my goal. I had big plans that I kept delaying for various reasons, maybe out of fear of the unknown – probably… well, surely. The thought of it was exciting, but it was also scary!
This time, if I left, I wasn’t coming back.
The Working Holiday Visa draws for Canada were opening at the end of the year, and this time, I was determined to get in! The competition was fierce with only a limited number of visas available, and the Canadian system had a habit of crashing the moment applications opened, but 2014 was going to be the year I left. No more waiting.
At the time, I was working as a Passenger Service Agent at Toulouse Airport, coming home from a morning shift when something happened at my building. A mis encounter, an unsettling moment to say the least – one that pushed me over the edge. I was done. I wasn’t happy. I wasn’t safe. I didn’t like this place.
Weirdly, I never felt at home in France, even though it’s my country. I never truly felt like I belonged. And I wasn’t going to wait any longer for a life that actually felt like mine.
It was time for that one-way ticket I had promised myself as a kid!
So, I got home, opened my laptop, checked my options. At the time, only three Working Holiday Visas were available: Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. I submitted an application for New Zealand, not expecting much. Thirty minutes later, in my emails:
“Your visa application has been approved.”
I squeaked. I jumped. I ran to the lounge to my mum, half-laughing, half-screaming – I’M FINALLY GETTING OUT OF HERE!!
I was going to New Zealand!!! Far, far away – like, Shrek’s kingdom levels of far!
A week later, I handed in my resignation, booked my one-way ticket and organised my departure. On November 30, 2014, I left France. Landing into a ‘sweet as’ Kiwi Spring on December, 1.
Kia Ora – My New Zealand Adventure Begins
The excitement I felt when I first saw the land from the plane was incredible. As I went through the airport to customs, the vibrant ads about New Zealand caught my eye, everything written in English and Māori setting the mood. The unknown was not scary anymore, it was exciting; my inner child felt real happy! I made it! I had no idea what the future will bring though, but for now the adventure was starting, and that was all that mattered.
I had always heard that New Zealanders, or Kiwis, were nice, warm, and welcoming. And that was the first impression I got when I arrived. Everyone was so helpful and courteous, right from the moment I passed through customs and hopped on the bus to downtown Auckland; it helped me feel at ease right away!
As I sat waiting for my bus, soaking up the morning sun lost in my mind, I felt this rush of happiness – I was on the other side of world, alone, in a foreign place, exactly where I needed to be! A lady sat down next to me. She greeted me and offered me some strawberries and we started chatting, she was originally from Samoa and had been living in New Zealand for over 25 years. I thought to myself, how this kind of friendliness is not something I was used to in France, mostly in the biggest cities, no one says “Hi” to a random stranger in France; if they do, it’s probably a little dodgy lol
That little exchange made my day, a good start to this new adventure and I guess a great welcome into Aotearoa; it set the tone for this adventure!
First Stop: Keri Keri
While organizing my departure, I found ways to get free accommodation in exchange for small tasks, which was my plan for the first month there to save a bit. Around the end of the month, I was supposed to meet the aunt of the friend of one of my colleagues from the airport in France – a nice contact to have in a foreign country. But for now, I was making my way up to the North Island, headed to Moon Gate Villa for a HelpX.
Keri Keri is a charming little town nestled in the Bay of Islands on New Zealand’s North Island, known for its rich history, lush landscapes, and laid-back vibe – perfect spot to start.
My hosts, Lionel and Rob, were welcoming and warm; happy to share their knowledge on the culture and the surroundings. Their luxury boutique hotel is nestled in a luxuriant sub-tropical garden and also hosts a cottage; I couldn’t have asked for a better start. Lionel even went ahead and booked a tour for me to go all the way up to Cape Reinga.
Cape Reinga is one of the most iconic place in New Zealand. It’s located at the northernmost tip of the North Island (though technically, North Cape is a little further north but it is a reserve not open to the public), this is were the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. I talk more about it in this post.
There was a French guy that was doing a HelpX as well, but it was towards the end of his stay so I didn’t see him long but he was really nice. I stayed a couple weeks then went down to my second HelpX in Coromandel Town in the Coromandel Peninsula, another beautiful side of New Zealand, but… it is hard to find an ugly spot in New Zealand! This new place I stayed was very different! I was in a cabin with no electricity, no toilets and no shower, on top of a hill; the view on the bay up there was sublime! The shower was outside and, hmm, rustic. I was petrified at the amount of spiders lol
My hosts were a family and they were very nice people but quite honestly, I didn’t stay long in this HelpX. As much as I like being in nature and all, I was freezing at night in the cabin and I still needed to make my way to Auckland. I found a cute hostel right behind Mount Eden in Auckland and made my way there.
This hostel, Oakland Lodge, is like a little house, not many rooms and a great vibe, felt like home, so much that I stayed there 10 months!! I even worked there at some point in exchange for free nights or discounted, I can’t remember but it was a nice deal, just needed to clean for few hours in the morning with other long term people. That’s a good thing in hostels; if you become a “long term” you can actually get free nights or discount in exchange of some work; not every hostels do that, but the ones that do are cool!
I met nice people there and made lifelong friends, we don’t live in the same countries now but we are still very much in touch!
The best thing about the hostel was its size – small and cozy. With so many of us staying long-term, we really got the chance to share our experiences, tips, dreams, and plenty of fun moments. Game nights, movie nights, Christmas and New Year’s Eve meals – it felt like a little family. And the location is perfect!
Mount Eden is such a nice spot in Auckland – just a bit away from downtown but with really easy access by bus or car. The little main street has everything you need. The walk up to the mount is a lovely hike, and at the top, you’re rewarded with an incredible 360-degree view of Auckland that stretches for miles.
Life at the hotel was really cool, and the friends I made there made it ten times better! Fun can last as long as you have big savings or actually find a job. So, I started looking. I wanted to stay in the tourism industry, but you know, you don’t always get what you want. You get what you need at the moment, and really, when you’re in need of money to keep the trip and the fun going, you find a job! Money was still fine but I like to be proactive on that, because you never know!
It was also time for me to meet the aunt of my colleague’s friend.
Home Away From Home
I was supposed to meet Mary at her coffee shop in Parnell Baths, a historic outdoor swimming pool complex that houses the largest saltwater pool in NZ. When I arrived, Mary was there with one of her sons. They were so kind and welcoming. I’m usually shy at first, but they made me feel so comfortable, we got along right away.
That’s how my story with them began. Mary, her husband, and their sons welcomed me with open arms, and I quickly became part of the family. They were such a loving, caring, and funny bunch. I had the best time with them and will forever be grateful for their kindness and love.
They truly took me in, introducing me to their friends and family as their new French daughter. Mary and one of her sons even met my mum in France when they went to visit other parts of their family there. It’s incredible how you can meet strangers in a foreign country and become so close! They made me feel at home away from home, and really made me feel like part of the family. That was the greatest gift I received in Aotearoa!
I think it was towards the end of summer when I got a job at Auckland Domestic Airport, hired by SkyCity Entertainment Group. I was going to work in the Koru Lounge – Air New Zealand. I needed a car, and I got lucky – at the hostel, a guy was leaving in a few days and urgently needed to sell his car.
It was my first car – nothing fancy, not in the best shape, but it got me from A to B and beyond. I was lucky enough to make a friend who was a mechanic, and he was kind enough to fix it up for me from time to time. If you’re reading this, my friend, thank you again!! That car gave me freedom – freedom to secure a job, get around, and explore. Sometimes, I even slept in the back during road trips.
The team I was working with at the lounge was mostly girls, and some of them were hilarious, there were two German girls working there as well. The girls taught me how to make coffee; the work itself wasn’t super hard, and the team was great and we had fun. As we got to know each other, we started going out, and I became especially close to one of the girls. To this day, we still stay in touch from time to time. Boy, she is funny! I guess it’s in her family, because I always had such a great time with them. Working at the lounge was a highlight just for the moments I shared with the team, both at work and outside of it!
Oh, and you know how important rugby is in NZ, right?! Well, my Kiwi family has some rugby players in the family, mostly in Europe, so they are really into rugby. I got to enjoy going to games with them, which was a real blast. I got to learn more about the game too, because even though rugby is huge in my city of Toulouse, I’d never actually been to a game there. As they say, while in Rome… I dived into the culture, embrace the excitement, and enjoy everything that came my way.
So I have a little story; while I was working at the lounge, it was during the 2015 Rugby World Cup, and as you probably know, the All Blacks won the cup! They celebrated with parades around NZ, and they came to the lounge…and…well, I couldn’t get closer:
I lowered my head as I saw the photograph on my right, I didn’t want to be in a picture but I also thought I wouldn’t be in the frame. A few days later, though, I received a message on Facebook from a girl I knew from school in France, asking if that was me in the picture! If it hadn’t been for her, I would’ve had no souvenir from that day! They were really nice and friendly, making jokes and staying until it was time to head to the next city.
When they came back and made their appearance in Auckland’s Victoria Park, I went to celebrate with thousands of others.
Time Flies When You Are Having Fun
Life was sweet in Aotearoa! The feeling I get writing this post is like sipping a hot chocolate in front of a fireplace while it’s snowing outside – it’s that cozy! It truly felt like home!
I moved around the North Island mostly, having little road trips all over the place as soon as I could. Went with some of the friends I made at the hostel too, creating memories for a lifetime.
Before I knew it, my visa was running out, and I wasn’t ready to leave. When my year was up, I took a quick weekend trip to Brisbane, Australia, just so I could return to New Zealand on a tourist visa. I ended up doing this in-and-out trip three times to extend my stay! On one of those trips, I met up with a former friend in Sydney for a few days – she happened to be traveling with her husband on their honeymoon.
For my final visa run, I finally checked off one of my top childhood travel dreams: The Cook Islands! Every time I mention them, people pause, ask me to repeat, and then – without fail – ask, “Where is that?”
A tiny paradise in the South Pacific, the Cook Islands sit between New Zealand and French Polynesia, boasting crystal-clear waters, white sand beaches, and a laid-back island vibe. And the nicest people!
I’ll talk more about The Cook Islands in another post, but this little paradise truly made my heart happy. Hop on a local bus, and in just an hour, you’ll have gone full circle around the island!
What Now?
Of course, finances were starting to run low, so I had to make a decision. Going back to France wasn’t an option. I needed to fill up my bank account, so I applied for a Working Holiday Visa for Australia.
Little secret? I didn’t actually want to go to Australia. After experiencing New Zealand and the kindness of the Kiwis, Australians didn’t seem as friendly. On my short trips there, I just didn’t feel like I’d enjoy living there. But I figured I could stay for a few months…
I ended up staying for almost seven years!! And I ended up loving it! But that’s a story for another time – probably more than one.
So, off to Australia I went.
One thing to know about New Zealand: winter can be very rainy. But hey, that’s why it’s so green and beautiful! That last winter, though, it rained almost non-stop for two months. I forgot what the sun looked like lol.
I landed in Sydney on August 9, 2016. Wintertime. Sun shining. A warm 25°C. A sign that maybe, just maybe, things were about to get good.
My Heart Stayed In New Zealand
There’s so much to say about New Zealand, but consider this a first glimpse into my story. It’s a stunning country with incredible people. Truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience!
New Zealand, you weren’t in the plan. But damn, I am glad things turned out this way!
In future posts, I’ll share more about my experiences, travel itineraries, and some useful tips and facts about the Land Of The Long White Cloud.
Let me know: have you been to New Zealand, or is it on your bucket list? And if you have any questions, I’d love to help!